![]() Anyway, that's what I'm going to use for my first "training batch" because it easy to acquire for now, and it's good enough to also get me using the machine… unless you guys think there's something wrong that won't work right with this first batch. So after my "OH SHIT moment" I found a gun store about 20 miles north of me, called, and they said they could give me the same for all, for $167.00 which was about $35 at least cheaper than if I got that small quantity at Midway. Because I wasn't ordering large quantities the extra charges were brutal.hazmat, handling, shipping etc. That ended up being 500 jacket Rainier 115gr bullets (I’ve been shooting 115 factory so I figured better to stick with that to start), plus 1Lb of Hodges TiteGroup, and 1000 Federal Primers. I had trouble finding certain products/brands in one place so I ended up with what amounts and brand names I could afford and find. I ended up at Midway because they had everything in one place, and I really need to keep ALL of these aspects simple until I get rolling a bit. After taking this all into consideration I went on line to order the primers, powder and bullets. Best to explain to me for now as if you were talking to your grandmother. Some of the terminology and product names are beyond my "knucklehead beginner’s level" at this point though. Have you picked a powder yet? Go to the 9mm subforum and read up on the favorite powder thread and that should help, but I'm with both Ron and Sarge.hard to go wrong with N320.very clean and soft. While I know what Ron meant when he said his ammo was "better" than factory ammo, don't confuse that none of us can realistically produce ammo that's as reliable and consistent as a major manufacturer, but we can tailor the load to our guns and uses, which makes it "better" for what we're doing. I'd order/buy a copy of the Loadbooks "One book/One Caliber because it has data from all the major bullet and powder manufacturers in one 's inexpensive, and really handy. ![]() Sometimes it's known what powder factory ammo is loaded with, but it's often something we don't have access to, so don't get too concerned with trying to exactly duplicate their ammo. I'm trying to get my mind around it before everything arrives. That's basically what I'm going to load for awhile and at least start with. I have a Dillon 550b on it's way from the Enos Store, and until it arrives with the Speer book of reloading that I also ordered, does anyone know a proper recipe to load the same as a factory standard 9mm 124 grain jacket bullet. Why the manuals don't agree ? Just way too many variables to take into consideration.if the data was exact.Need some help as a new reloader. įunctioning was 100 % and accuracy was excellent. Low and behold shooting proved that 4.0 grains of bullseye with a 124 or 125 grain cast boolit was the favorite. So.I take 3.6 + 4.1 = 7.7 / 2 = 3.85 and start my loads at 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 and 4.0 grains of Bullseye and see how the gun shoots. I've learned over the years that starting at the max or min load usually does not get me a reliable mid range load. I look at 3 or 4 difference published sources and take the average start and max loads. Where do you start ? None of the data jives. ġ24 grain RCBS# 9mm-124-CN - Bullseye powder I often wonder why there is so much difference in load data.Don't substitute jacketed bullet data for lead boolit data it's not the same. Just don't get them confused, with their corresponding power charges because "then" you would likely have issues to deal with you likely will not want to have.Īlliant list 4.4 gr of bulls eye as max with a 124 gr jacketed bullet. You would likely be safe to try both OALs at the START charge. I would suggest that you do what most manuals suggest & that is start low & work up, even if you do not have a chrony & look for pressure signs. I am not going to take the time now to explain how to do that though.) ( You can possibly "extrapolate" the velocity numbers if you are using a different bbl. If you have a chronograph, you could try both OALs & both charges as listed in the manuals and compare the velocity numbers, as long as you use the same length bbl, as they did to test their loads. Look at those OALs and you can see that the Lyman manuals boolit is seated deeper into the case at 1.115" than the Lee manuals one is at 1.15, even though they are the same boolit, so the Lyman seating depth making the volume inside the case smaller because the boolit is deeper into the case, would be how they would likely be getting the pressure they show with less of a charge, than the Lee charge with that boolit being seated out farther.
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